Papa Duck's Tour de France

Welcome to the blog of Papa Duck's Tour de France! Papa Duck has taught his kids to love France and look forward to going there someday with him. For some of us, that day has finally arrived.

As lovers of all things French, we have studied the language, met French people and watched the Tour de France. Now, we are going on our own Tour de France. Some of us will attempt to ride the Tourmelet and the Alp d'Huez. Others of us will merely sample the local fare and stroll down cobblestone streets.

Here is a record of our adventure!

By Person

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Paris second night (Elisse)

Paris is a late town.  We were out on the Eiffel Tower until 12:30 in the night before we realized how late it was.  At that late hour, we bought crepes from a street vendor.  (But that isn't this story--that was the previous day, our first night in Paris.)

Our second day in Paris was a whirlwind of museums.  We bought a comprehensive museum pass and wanted to get the most out of it.

Our first museum was the Notre Dame Cathedral.  Its flying buttresses and rose windows were so beautiful.  And I got a picture of a gargoyle looking directly at me.  It was a strange mix of worship and tourism there because it is still a functioning church.
The second museum was the Pompidou museum of modern art.  This famous museum houses a large collection of Picasso paintings as well as other modern artists.  One piece of art was a two-room piano studio lined with large rolls of felt.

The third museum was the Louvre.  This one-time-palace of the king now houses every greek statue, every famous and non-famous painting--basically every piece of art created anywhere in the world at any time.  It is huge.  We hurried through, saw the Venus de Milo, Mona Lia and Michaelangelo's statues.  In the process of going to those three places, we saw 5000 other beautiful paintings and statues.

Our fourth museum was our favorite.  The museum of music. Before we finally found the large plaza and the obviously marked location on our map, we explored a Parisian suburb with a similarly named street.  It took us about an hour wandering around apartment houses and parochial schools before we found someone who corrected our error and set us in the right direction.

Enfin, we almost missed out on this fabulous museum.  We arrived just minutes before they cut off admissions for the day.  Then we spent so much time listening to the music and admiring the instruments of a past era (1500's, I think) that we only got o enjoy half of the museum.  But we truly did enjoy it.  Matt, Ashley and Garry are all musicians at heart, so every note and every instrument were magical time machines for them.  And I appreciate music and beauty, so I loved it as well.  We were eventually ushered out at 15 minutes before closing time because (evidently--we didn't know, but it was evident to the workers) the guests were required to leave far enough before closing time that the workers could then actually leave at closing time.  (If not such a worker-friendly environment, I am sure they would have been on strike and we would have missed the museum altogether.)

Foot-sore and art-exhausted, we still had one more stop before turning in for the night.  The Paris Opera House.  (Think: Phantom of the Opera.)  Although it was too late in the day for an interior tour, we admired the architecture from the outside.  For dinner, we ate sausage and chicken sandwiches on baguette that we picked up from a street vendor outside the Music Museum.

Paris Must-do check-list for this day:
1- See famous art -- check, check, check
2- Get lost in Paris -- check
3- Eat street vendor food -- check (not very yummy, but perfectly timed and not very expensive)
4- Party in our hotel room until late -- check (It was fun to compare notes with the rest of the group at the end of the day.  We did many of the same sites at different times of the day and had totally different experiences.)

Paris first night (Elisse)

We were treated to a family-style breakfast at the castle before heading north toward Paris this morning.  Sliced meats, cheeses, hot cocoa, juice and breads were the fare.  We loved it.  It was very congenial to chat, plan and start the day in such a pleasant way.

For the first time today, we got to ride in the car with Aaron and Nan.  Now we finally feel like we are on the same vacation.  <smile>

Our first tourist stop was Chambord.  Chambord was spectacular.  I think it has some 700 or so rooms and 500 or so chimneys.  It also has loads of strange towers.  This great big castle was the little hunting retreat for the king in its hey day.

Our second stop was at the grocery store to get lunch and gas.  Then we drove like crazy to be able to get to Versailles early enough to enjoy it.

Versailles is a multi-palace compound.  It is a must-see site for Paris.  It is very extravagent.  We walked about 1.5 miles to the game room (it is actually a castle the size of about 10 of my houses put together) of the king.  In doing so, we passed the most vast and amazing garden I think I have ever seen.  Then we toured the queen's house (i.e. castle almost as big as the king's game room).  Also back in that part of the grounds was the queen's play area.  Her play area is a little village of thatch-roofed and be-flowered houses (all regular size) where she would go to pretend to be a peasant.

From Versailles, we drove 10-15 minutes into the heart of Paris.  I hope to never have another Paris driving experience if I can help it.  They drive crazy in this town.

After arriving in Paris, we started checking off the "must see/ do" events.

1- Try to go to a site, but find out that the workers are all on strike. (The Arc de Triomphe) -- Check
2- Hear a street performer begging for money in the metro. -- Check (The violinist loved our patronage.  Unlike everyone else on the Metro who was actively ignoring him, we took pictures and gave him money.)
3- See the eiffel tower by night (all lit up) and climb up it.  (So many steps to the top of the tower.  Huff and puff.  But it was worth it.)
4- Eat crepes.  (Bought at half-past midnight at the base of the Eiffel tower.  The town was very much still humming with activity at that time of night.)

Oh La La...Paris!

The Eiffel tower at midnight with sparkling strobe lights!
The Louvre--most famous museum in the entire world-- where we see the Mona Lisa, along with HUNDREDS of other paintings and sculptures
The Pompidou--THE modern art museum featuring Dali, Picasso, Chagal, and other art big wigs!  Although we didn't find the smashed piano, we did the a darling video exhibit of children who were viewing A Weeping Woman by Picasso.  These little British children were to die for!
Notre Dame--Cathedral in the middle of the Seine river on a little island.
The Arch de Triumph--unfortunatley we couldn't climb it due to a strike.
And our favorite: The Music Museum--the history of musical intsruments and examples of all of them including the 6 inch violins 9called pocket violins) and a 13 foot bass!!!
Riding the metro
Eating street food
...

So much to say, so little time.

Friday, May 27, 2011

Chateau de Bois Robert (Elisse)

The first site this morning was the cliffside village of Rocamadour (Roc).  The castle and chruch (not to mention the pubs and houses) seems to hang off the side of the mountain, while the fortress at the top of the cliff seemed to watch over the entire.

The main visit for the day was the quaint rejeuvenated village calle something Rouge (red).  This sleepy town offered us the rest of the souvenirs we wanted.  And best of all, we shared a picnic lunch with Valerie Allal, her husband and Lahouarie (sp?) adn daughter-in-law, Alison.  Garry tried pate for the first time (me too).  It was really good (strong, but pretty good).   Especially yummy was Valerie's tabouleh (couscous salad).

All the walls and stones and bricks in the town are red.  And there were tons of flowers in bloom in all varieties--and young grapes.

We got lost again this evening tryin gto find the "castle" we are sleeping in.  But once here, we met back up with the bikers (who had gone to ride the Tourmalet). 

This "castle" where we are sleeping tonight is actually a rickety old mansion from the 1800's.  The rooms are nice.  The grounds are big.  But I wouldn't call it a castle.  Even though it is "just" a country manor, it is still pretty great!

Garry played catch with the golden lab dog for a while.  He really loves dogs like this one:  big, friendly, fun.  Who knew?  (Not me.)

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Carcassone France (Elisse)

This morning in Arles, we saw a Roman theater, a Roman colusseum and an obelisk--all still (or again) in use for their original purpose.  Well, I don't know the original purpose of the obelisk--it is a fountain now.

In Perpignan, we lunched with Dad's friends.  Marie Therese (our hostess) served first, a unique lemon, apple sprite with herbs, also melon balls on toothpicks.  That was just the first course.  The second course was roasted vegetables, salad, and bruschetta.  We thought it was a nice light summer lunch.  And it was delicious at that!!  Not so--there was more:  3rd course came out after a polite amount of talking.  Meatballs on white beans and potatoes.  (Huge meatballs! in mushroom sauce.)  It was delicious!  We began to feel full. 

Then... 4th course of cheese and bread was served.  After that, we all stretched our legs, then decided to take dessert outside in the garden.  But before dessert, we ate our 5th course which was fruit salad topped with cream. 

More talking.  Then, out with the 6th course:  dessert of currant and blackberry tart.  It was a very agreeable way to spend an afternoon!




Well-fed in both spirit and body, we then looked at two local Moor-ish castles.  Then away to Carcassonne where we washed laundry, ate pizza and admired the walled city lighted to show off its charm and beauty.

French Initiative in Montpelier France (Elisse)

[Dad needs to make a call to his friend in Perpignan to explain that we've had congested traffic and will be a little late to our lunch appointment.  So he stops to use the phone at a gas station along the way.]


Dad:  Why won't this telephone take my credit card?  I'll go ask the clerk.

Dad:  Can someone help me make the telephone work?

Clerk:  Hey, manager, can you help this guy make the phone work?

Manager:  Oh, I see the problem--your credit card isn't right.  It has this long magnetic strip on the back and instead, it needs to have a little magnetic square on the end here.

Dad:  Do you have any other phones around here that will take my card?

Manager:  No.  I don't.

Dad:  Do you think there are any other rest stops along this road that will take my card?

Manager:  I don't know.  Maybe.

[Manager walks away.  Dad shakes his head.  Garry suggests we see if they sell a phone card.]

Dad:  Manager, do you sell a card that will work in that phone?

Manager:  Oh yes!  Clerk, help this man.

Dad:  Clerk, do you sell a card that will work in that phone?

Clerk:  Oh yes!  No problem.  Here you go.

[Dad shakes his head at their lack of initiative and makes his phone call.]

Arles, France (Elisse)

This morning we went to the outdoor market in Gordes.  On the way, we saw an unmarked (and unexpected) Roman aquaduct or highway bridge, a spring of water that runs down to Isle sur la Sorgue and a lavendar museum/ store.  The final approach to the city of Gordes surprised us with an absolutely stunning view.  We were interested to notice, as we rounded the last bend, a large group of Japanese people coming out of a bush carrying their cameras.  Then, around the bend, we saw what they had been shooting:  a cliffside mediterranean village above a lush valley.  It was breathtakingly beautiful!  The pictures don't capture our surprise or the charm of the place.

At the market, we bought clothes, jams, spices, cheese and bread.  Many local foods and handicrafts were available.  It was very orderly and a fun experience not to mention a good place to pick up some souvenirs.  Near there, we saw a Cistercian Abbey.  (Cistercian are a kind of monk who worship in a very simple reverent way and value books & reading.)

One of the things people do in this part of France is get lost.  So we did that once or twice (even with help from the GPS).

Later in the day we saw the Pope's Palace and the famous bridge in Avignon.  (We danced under the bridge.)  We also saw the massive & impressive "Pont du Gard" -- a roman aqueduct from 19 AD.  Wow!  The engineering that went into the triple-arch-height aqueduct is mind-boggling.  So is the fig tree growing half-way up.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Isle sur la Sorgue, France (Elisse)

Our morning run turned into a hike that lasted 2 hours.  We originally set off to jog down to town-center Grenoble, find a boulangerie (croissants) then ride the "telepherique" (gondola) to the bastille fort on the top of the mountain.  Unfortunately, we werent' hungry when we arrived ath the boulangerie because we had eaten power bars before leaving the hotel.  Then, when we arrived at the telepherique, we found that it didn't upen until 11am (the check out time for the hotel and the meter expiration time for the car).  So we decided to hike to the top.  The steep grade and the 500 x 500 x 500 stairs made the 1.6 km (1 mile) hike take about an hour.  At the top, we found an ancient fort as well as some WWII defense caves.

Finally at 11:30, we ate breakfast of croissants & mini-quiches.  Yum!  Especially the chocolate croissants.

The alps around that area are very tall and steep.  We drove up the Alpe D'Huez because that's where the bikers were.  It was stunning!  So high, so many switchbacks, such fresh air & picturesque views!

We ended our ramblings this evening in a canal-towne in Provence.  Isle sur la Sorgue is a romantique but somewhat dilapidated town.  With very low elevation, the temperature is higher than it was in the alps, but not uncomfortable.  The "island" part of the town is pretty small (took only 1.5 hours to walk all thru and around it).  The "river" part of the town is only knee-deep, but its current is fast enough to power several water wheels.

Grenoble France (Elisse)

Garry & I took a nice walk in the morning.  Followed by breakfast chez Dubrez.  Fresh-tasting yogurt and Tresse bread with homemade jam were the fare.  Then, since we were all dressed up and ready to go out, we drove to the hotel in Geneva for stake conference.  Three women sang a version of "O Divine Redeemer" that brought us to tears.  Such a beautiful and worshipful song really added to our Sunday meeting!

With our hearts still tender from the service, we went to visit the "Wall of the Reformers."  It is a magnificent memorial to the great protestant reformers (Calvin, Knox, Roger Williams, Cromwell and others).  Their larger than life statues in relief on the wall are a bold reminder of their bravery and accomplishments.

After a quick picture in the rain at the double home in Chambesy where the Geneva mission is headquartered and where it was headquartered in 1967-1970 when Dad served as assistant to the president, we returned to the Dubrez home for lunch and farewells.

In the evening, we arrived in France.  Checked in to the hotel, we scouted out the town center, looked at our first French Cathedral, then took a satisfying dinner at a local pub.  Several of us ordered savory crepes.  Mine was filled with a mushroom cream sauce and topped with Swiss (Emantaler) cheese.  Garry had a bacon and potato and cheese crepe.

The brief downpour before dinner didn't bother us in the least.  And it was a cool clear saunter of about a mile and a half back to the hotel after dinner.

Alpe de'Heuz et Mont Ventoux (travelogue #2 by Matt)

We have now done two days of hard climbing and were are really tired.  Monday we drove up into the Alps (we were already in the Alps, but we drove up a side canyon) and they were spectacular.  The Alps were definitely as wonderful as advertised.  The mountains were really beautiful with broad valleys in between, C'est manifique!

L'Alpe D'Huez has 21 switbacks, is about 8 miles long and has and average grade of 9.5%.  It starts just outside of the town where we rented the bikes and goes right up the mountain face.  We got a later start that we had hoped, so we didn't start climbing until around 10:00 am.  It was cool in the valley so we were dressed rather warmly, but as soon as the road started the climb we were immediately overheating.  Mommy in particular was dying from the heat.

Not to worry, however, because Papa Duck was waiting for us at switchback 20 (the switchbacks count down to the top so the first one that you encounter is 21, the last one is 1).  We dropped off our extra layers and resumed climbing.  Mommy also chose to ride with Papa Duck up to the midpoint of the climb to lessen the challenge and to keep her climbing with the rest of us.

Aaron and Nan proved to be the strongest climbers and quickly pulled away from me, eventually even passing mommy.  I plugged away up the climb enjoying the spectacular backdrop and frequent switchbacks.  It took me about 1 hour and 45 minutes to get to the top and I even caught mommy at the finish line.

After a really fun decent, the four cyclists jumped in the river that runs through Bourg d'Ossain in our cycling clothes (the place where we rented the bikes) and took baths.  The water was really, really cold!  It was harder for me to wash in the water than it was to climb the mountain.

By then Elisse, Garry, and Grandma Suzi had joined us so we all took off for our next stop, Ilse-sur-la-sorge.  Ilse-sur-la-sorge is a really cool town that used to center of textile fabrication.  In order to produce the textiles, they harnassed the Sorge River into dozens of channels and ran it through 70 water wheels.  Now that the textile industry moved, they have turned the multiple canals into the really cool town.  When you walk through the village there are canals everywhere with a bunch of still working water wheels.  It was really neat.

Today we climbed Mont Ventoux.  What a beast!  The climbers and Pape Duck started early in the morning and had a 30 Km climb from the town where we picked up the bikes to the summit.  The first few Km were actually down hill, so we even had farther to climb to get to the summit.  When we had 18 Km left the hill really picked up.  It got really steep and stayed that way forever.

Mont Ventoux was the hardest clmb that I have ever done!  I don't know if it was in part because I had done such a tough climb the night before, but I spent a good part of the time in my easiest gear and I was still struggling to make any progress.  Mommy started this climb part the way up, and when there was about 5 Km left she stopped and waited for me.  That was nice because we climbed the last part of the mountain together.  When I got to the top I felt totally spent.

Aaron and Nan were already at the top when we got there and had purchased a bunch of candy from some candy vendors.  We were all so depleted that we ate that candy like it was our last meal on earth.

A short time later we started down the mountain, Mommy with Papa Duck in the car and Aaron, Nan, and I rode down.  Since the bike shop in the town that we had picked up the bikes was closed, we had to take them back to the main town many miles away in order to return them.  The problem was that we couldn't fit all four bikes on the rack.  So Mommy and Papo Duck went ahead to return one bike and then they were going to come back and pick up the rest of us.

Unfortunately Mommy and Papa Duck had a difficult time finding the town where the bikes had to be returned, and then once they had the right town, the had a hard time finding the bike shop.  As a result Aaron, Nan, and I rode all the way from the top of Mt. Ventoux to the town of Velleron before they had a chance to come looking for us.  By the time it was done we had ridden 50 miles and I had burned approximately 5,000 calories.

The other problem with our bike return difficulties was that it put us a few hours behind schedule in meeting up with Garry, Elisse, and Grandma Suzie who were waiting for us in Avingnon.  We hurried to our rondezvous point with them, but found the inner city of Avingnon to be a mess.  It took us a while to find a parking spot and we hurried to join the rest of the group in front of the Pope's Palace.  They had been waiting for a couple of hours, but took the delay in stride (they are the best).

At this point we split the group again.  Garry, Elisse, Mommy, and I traveled on foot to the bridge in Avingnon to get pictures of us dancing (we had to pay homage to the song).  The rest of the group went a head to Pont du Gard, a famous and really cool aquaduct built by the Romans.  Once we had taken our pictures with the the bridge, we joined everyone at the aquaduct.  Mommy and I changed into our swimming suits and bathed under the aquaduct in the Gard River.  And, the Pont du Gard ruins were really stunning.  I can't believe that something that beautiful and well constructed was built that long ago.

Our day ended by eating in a nearby town and getting to our hotel in Arles.  We are all really tired, but it has been a few great day.  Tomorrow is somewhat of a rest day since are travelling to our next climb and passing through Carcassonne.  Also, the non-bikers are splitting with us to visit some individuals from Papa Duck's mission so the next few days we are on our own.

Sunday, May 22, 2011

The first few days (from the eyes of Matt)

Greetings from France!!  We are a few days into out trip, but this has been the first place that we have had internet access.  We have already seen and done some fun things.

Day 1:

Our flight leaving Salt Lake was delayed by just over an hour because of potential tornados in Dallas, but we had a fun time waiting by chatting with Aaron, Nan, Papa Duck, and Grandma Suzi.  When we got to Dallas, our flight to London was also delayed because of heavy rain and thunderstorms in Dallas.  We finally got on our way however and had a great flight to London.

Day 2:

Arriving in London we only had about an hour to make our transfer and it is a big airport.  We did make it, however, and also met up with Garry and Elisse.  We had a nice flight to Geneva with some cool views of the Engish Channel, Paris, and the mountains leading into Geneva. 

Our party was split into two on the flight to Geneva, so we waited about and hour and a half until Papa Duck and Grandma Suzi arrived.  By then Phillip and Giselle, Papa Duck's friends in Geneva had arrived (Papa Duck baptized Giselle when he was on his mission years ago).  We got our two rental cars and made our way to Nyon where Giselle lives.

At this point we were excited to be in Switzerland, but also really tired because we hadn't slept much on the flights.  We forced ourselves to stay awake, however, by going for a walk down to Lake Lucern.  The lake was beautiful and the weather was perfect.  Across the lake were the French Alps and they looked really cool.  Mommy, Aaron, and Nan actually took advantage of the time to go running along the lake.

That night Giselle's daughter came by to visit, she had spent a summer living with mommy's family when mommy was a teenager and everyone had a great time catching up with her.  When it was time to sleep, Garry, Elisse, mommy and I went to Giselle's nephew's vacant flat to spend the night.  It was quite comfortable and we were quickly asleep.

Day 3:

My third day started really early since I woke up at 3:30 and couldn't get back to sleep; changing time zones by eight hours can be really hard to adjust to.  I sat on the couch in the other room so that mommy could still sleep, and worked on my computer until 5:30 when I decided to try to sleep again.  Finally at 6:15 I fell back to sleep and slept until 7:45 when I had to get up.  It turns out that Papa Duck and Aaron had the same problem back at Giselle's house.

It was stake conference her in Giselle's stake so after breakfast back at Giselle's house we went to a hotel in Geneva for stake conference.  Marlese Gurney's brother is the stake president here so Ashley and I met him and got our picture taken with him.  We also got to wear headsets and listen to an English translation during the stake conference.  We were all so tire, however, and it was so hot in the room that we all had a really tough time staying awake.

After church we drove into downtown Geneva and saw the Wall of the Reformers.  It is a wall dedicated to the men who risked their lives bringing about the great religeous reform from the Catholic church.  The wall is really big with the huge statues of the many of the principle reformers including John Calvin.  We were there for over half and hour and mommy and I were moved by the monument to such courageous men.

We then traveled back to Giselle for lunch and to say our goodbyes.  Phillip and Giselle were so nice and provided a great welcome to Europe.

After leaving Nyon we crossed the border into France and traveled to Grenoble.  It was only a two hour drive and we easily found our hotel.  After checking in we walked down to the city center and had dinner.  Mommy had an eggplant crepe and I had ravioli.

Tomorrow we climb L'Alp d'Huez.

P.S. Pictures to come

Friday, May 20, 2011

Arrival in Switzerland May 21 (Elisse)

May 20.  We left Dallas at 9:55am when Garry finished his last project in the office.  Then, since he was operating on about 2 hours of sleep, and I had slept 5, I drove to Houston.  There we left the kids with Dusty and hurried to the airport for our London-bound flight.

The flight from Houston to London took 8 1/2 hours.  I was fortunate to be able to sleep for about 6 hours.  Garry only slept for 1 1/2 due to wiggly neighbors.  May 21:  In London, we met the Ashleys and the Aarons adn flew together to Geneva.  And in Geneva, we connected with Mom & Dad and Giselle Dubrez (our friend and hostess in Switzerland).

After a little detour (we got lost), we found ourselves safely on the road to Nyon (Giselle's home--a suburb of Geneva).

Giselle was the perfect hostess!  She took us by the chateau (where she had gotten married), through the city garden and down to the seaboard.  There she bought me some postcards.  And then, feeling very European, we walked back to her flat (i.e. her apartment).



Aaron, Nan and Ashley had gone running and ended their run when they met us down by the castle.  Once back at the flat, we met Philippe Dubrez (Giselle's husband and also our friend) and chatted with him and Giselle as we laughed and ate his homemade pizza for dinner.  Then their daughter Christine came for a minute before we all headed to bed.  (Christine made a few trips to the states to stay with our family when she was younger.)