Papa Duck's Tour de France

Welcome to the blog of Papa Duck's Tour de France! Papa Duck has taught his kids to love France and look forward to going there someday with him. For some of us, that day has finally arrived.

As lovers of all things French, we have studied the language, met French people and watched the Tour de France. Now, we are going on our own Tour de France. Some of us will attempt to ride the Tourmelet and the Alp d'Huez. Others of us will merely sample the local fare and stroll down cobblestone streets.

Here is a record of our adventure!

By Person

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Paris first night (Elisse)

We were treated to a family-style breakfast at the castle before heading north toward Paris this morning.  Sliced meats, cheeses, hot cocoa, juice and breads were the fare.  We loved it.  It was very congenial to chat, plan and start the day in such a pleasant way.

For the first time today, we got to ride in the car with Aaron and Nan.  Now we finally feel like we are on the same vacation.  <smile>

Our first tourist stop was Chambord.  Chambord was spectacular.  I think it has some 700 or so rooms and 500 or so chimneys.  It also has loads of strange towers.  This great big castle was the little hunting retreat for the king in its hey day.

Our second stop was at the grocery store to get lunch and gas.  Then we drove like crazy to be able to get to Versailles early enough to enjoy it.

Versailles is a multi-palace compound.  It is a must-see site for Paris.  It is very extravagent.  We walked about 1.5 miles to the game room (it is actually a castle the size of about 10 of my houses put together) of the king.  In doing so, we passed the most vast and amazing garden I think I have ever seen.  Then we toured the queen's house (i.e. castle almost as big as the king's game room).  Also back in that part of the grounds was the queen's play area.  Her play area is a little village of thatch-roofed and be-flowered houses (all regular size) where she would go to pretend to be a peasant.

From Versailles, we drove 10-15 minutes into the heart of Paris.  I hope to never have another Paris driving experience if I can help it.  They drive crazy in this town.

After arriving in Paris, we started checking off the "must see/ do" events.

1- Try to go to a site, but find out that the workers are all on strike. (The Arc de Triomphe) -- Check
2- Hear a street performer begging for money in the metro. -- Check (The violinist loved our patronage.  Unlike everyone else on the Metro who was actively ignoring him, we took pictures and gave him money.)
3- See the eiffel tower by night (all lit up) and climb up it.  (So many steps to the top of the tower.  Huff and puff.  But it was worth it.)
4- Eat crepes.  (Bought at half-past midnight at the base of the Eiffel tower.  The town was very much still humming with activity at that time of night.)

Oh La La...Paris!

The Eiffel tower at midnight with sparkling strobe lights!
The Louvre--most famous museum in the entire world-- where we see the Mona Lisa, along with HUNDREDS of other paintings and sculptures
The Pompidou--THE modern art museum featuring Dali, Picasso, Chagal, and other art big wigs!  Although we didn't find the smashed piano, we did the a darling video exhibit of children who were viewing A Weeping Woman by Picasso.  These little British children were to die for!
Notre Dame--Cathedral in the middle of the Seine river on a little island.
The Arch de Triumph--unfortunatley we couldn't climb it due to a strike.
And our favorite: The Music Museum--the history of musical intsruments and examples of all of them including the 6 inch violins 9called pocket violins) and a 13 foot bass!!!
Riding the metro
Eating street food
...

So much to say, so little time.

Friday, May 27, 2011

Chateau de Bois Robert (Elisse)

The first site this morning was the cliffside village of Rocamadour (Roc).  The castle and chruch (not to mention the pubs and houses) seems to hang off the side of the mountain, while the fortress at the top of the cliff seemed to watch over the entire.

The main visit for the day was the quaint rejeuvenated village calle something Rouge (red).  This sleepy town offered us the rest of the souvenirs we wanted.  And best of all, we shared a picnic lunch with Valerie Allal, her husband and Lahouarie (sp?) adn daughter-in-law, Alison.  Garry tried pate for the first time (me too).  It was really good (strong, but pretty good).   Especially yummy was Valerie's tabouleh (couscous salad).

All the walls and stones and bricks in the town are red.  And there were tons of flowers in bloom in all varieties--and young grapes.

We got lost again this evening tryin gto find the "castle" we are sleeping in.  But once here, we met back up with the bikers (who had gone to ride the Tourmalet). 

This "castle" where we are sleeping tonight is actually a rickety old mansion from the 1800's.  The rooms are nice.  The grounds are big.  But I wouldn't call it a castle.  Even though it is "just" a country manor, it is still pretty great!

Garry played catch with the golden lab dog for a while.  He really loves dogs like this one:  big, friendly, fun.  Who knew?  (Not me.)

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Carcassone France (Elisse)

This morning in Arles, we saw a Roman theater, a Roman colusseum and an obelisk--all still (or again) in use for their original purpose.  Well, I don't know the original purpose of the obelisk--it is a fountain now.

In Perpignan, we lunched with Dad's friends.  Marie Therese (our hostess) served first, a unique lemon, apple sprite with herbs, also melon balls on toothpicks.  That was just the first course.  The second course was roasted vegetables, salad, and bruschetta.  We thought it was a nice light summer lunch.  And it was delicious at that!!  Not so--there was more:  3rd course came out after a polite amount of talking.  Meatballs on white beans and potatoes.  (Huge meatballs! in mushroom sauce.)  It was delicious!  We began to feel full. 

Then... 4th course of cheese and bread was served.  After that, we all stretched our legs, then decided to take dessert outside in the garden.  But before dessert, we ate our 5th course which was fruit salad topped with cream. 

More talking.  Then, out with the 6th course:  dessert of currant and blackberry tart.  It was a very agreeable way to spend an afternoon!




Well-fed in both spirit and body, we then looked at two local Moor-ish castles.  Then away to Carcassonne where we washed laundry, ate pizza and admired the walled city lighted to show off its charm and beauty.

French Initiative in Montpelier France (Elisse)

[Dad needs to make a call to his friend in Perpignan to explain that we've had congested traffic and will be a little late to our lunch appointment.  So he stops to use the phone at a gas station along the way.]


Dad:  Why won't this telephone take my credit card?  I'll go ask the clerk.

Dad:  Can someone help me make the telephone work?

Clerk:  Hey, manager, can you help this guy make the phone work?

Manager:  Oh, I see the problem--your credit card isn't right.  It has this long magnetic strip on the back and instead, it needs to have a little magnetic square on the end here.

Dad:  Do you have any other phones around here that will take my card?

Manager:  No.  I don't.

Dad:  Do you think there are any other rest stops along this road that will take my card?

Manager:  I don't know.  Maybe.

[Manager walks away.  Dad shakes his head.  Garry suggests we see if they sell a phone card.]

Dad:  Manager, do you sell a card that will work in that phone?

Manager:  Oh yes!  Clerk, help this man.

Dad:  Clerk, do you sell a card that will work in that phone?

Clerk:  Oh yes!  No problem.  Here you go.

[Dad shakes his head at their lack of initiative and makes his phone call.]

Arles, France (Elisse)

This morning we went to the outdoor market in Gordes.  On the way, we saw an unmarked (and unexpected) Roman aquaduct or highway bridge, a spring of water that runs down to Isle sur la Sorgue and a lavendar museum/ store.  The final approach to the city of Gordes surprised us with an absolutely stunning view.  We were interested to notice, as we rounded the last bend, a large group of Japanese people coming out of a bush carrying their cameras.  Then, around the bend, we saw what they had been shooting:  a cliffside mediterranean village above a lush valley.  It was breathtakingly beautiful!  The pictures don't capture our surprise or the charm of the place.

At the market, we bought clothes, jams, spices, cheese and bread.  Many local foods and handicrafts were available.  It was very orderly and a fun experience not to mention a good place to pick up some souvenirs.  Near there, we saw a Cistercian Abbey.  (Cistercian are a kind of monk who worship in a very simple reverent way and value books & reading.)

One of the things people do in this part of France is get lost.  So we did that once or twice (even with help from the GPS).

Later in the day we saw the Pope's Palace and the famous bridge in Avignon.  (We danced under the bridge.)  We also saw the massive & impressive "Pont du Gard" -- a roman aqueduct from 19 AD.  Wow!  The engineering that went into the triple-arch-height aqueduct is mind-boggling.  So is the fig tree growing half-way up.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Isle sur la Sorgue, France (Elisse)

Our morning run turned into a hike that lasted 2 hours.  We originally set off to jog down to town-center Grenoble, find a boulangerie (croissants) then ride the "telepherique" (gondola) to the bastille fort on the top of the mountain.  Unfortunately, we werent' hungry when we arrived ath the boulangerie because we had eaten power bars before leaving the hotel.  Then, when we arrived at the telepherique, we found that it didn't upen until 11am (the check out time for the hotel and the meter expiration time for the car).  So we decided to hike to the top.  The steep grade and the 500 x 500 x 500 stairs made the 1.6 km (1 mile) hike take about an hour.  At the top, we found an ancient fort as well as some WWII defense caves.

Finally at 11:30, we ate breakfast of croissants & mini-quiches.  Yum!  Especially the chocolate croissants.

The alps around that area are very tall and steep.  We drove up the Alpe D'Huez because that's where the bikers were.  It was stunning!  So high, so many switchbacks, such fresh air & picturesque views!

We ended our ramblings this evening in a canal-towne in Provence.  Isle sur la Sorgue is a romantique but somewhat dilapidated town.  With very low elevation, the temperature is higher than it was in the alps, but not uncomfortable.  The "island" part of the town is pretty small (took only 1.5 hours to walk all thru and around it).  The "river" part of the town is only knee-deep, but its current is fast enough to power several water wheels.